The                       diverse arts and culture of Thailand                       have a fascination of their very own, and one of the                       most fascinating is Thai classical dance and its rituals                       and traditions. Visitors don't really feel they have seen                       Thailand until they've witnessed at least one performance                       of Thai classical dancing--but many understand very little                       of what they see. It's beautiful and it's different, but                       its background escapes them.                                                                                In                 "A Descriptive Catalogue of the Siamese Section at the                 International Exhibition of Industry and Labour" held at                 Turin, Italy in 1911, H.M. King Vajiravudh wrote the commentary                 on the theatre of Siam. He classified contemporary entertainment                 into five types:                 
                 
The                 Hun has survived in a different form as the Hun Krabock or                 marionettes; and the Nang as Nang Talung, or Shadow Play.                 According to the late Highness Prince Dhani Nivat, however, this                 Nang Talung bears no resemblance to its classical prototype                 except that both are exhibited on screens which are lit in such                 a way so as to cast the shadows. Today very few troupes of these                 performers remain active and the art                 is dying. The Lik ay is most often seen in travelling shows at                 temple fairs, or in rural Thailand where it is popular                 entertainme                                                         
King                 Vajiravudh                 classified legitimate theatre as being two distinct types--the                 Khon and the Lakon. His Majesty wrote:--"The theatre where                 the Khon and Lakon are performed ... possesses the beautiful                 simplicity of an ancient Greek theatre ... neither stage nor                 scenery is required ... Costumes and properties however, are                 very elaborate, and are made as accurately as possible. The                 costumes are made to resemble those worn in Siam in olden times,                 and have not changed during successive generations, because they                 have been found most picturesque and suitable. Queens or royal                 personages wear crowns or coronets; others have various kinds of                 headdresses suitable to their rank and station. Character parts,                 such as demons, monkeys, or yogis we ar distinctive masks of                 different colours and designs. Each mask is a good example of                 Siamese decorative art, and is distinctive and characteristic,                 so that each character may at once be recognized by the mask                 worn by the actor."                 
In                 earlier times there were no theatres for public entertainment in                 Siam. Kings, princes, noblemen and high-ranking officials                 maintained their own troupes of classical dancers and musicians--many                 of them trained at the palace. Performances were given for                 occasions such as birthday, important visitors, cremations, or                 simply the wish of the patron. Theatre programmes weren't                 necessary because almost all those who were invited to attend                 already knew the story--always portions of the Ramakian.                 Ordinary people found their entertainment at temples, cremations                 or other special celebrations. As recently as 1935 there were                 troupes of court dancers.                 
Many                 of the costumes, although very beautiful, are heavy and                 uncomfortable--especially the female headdresses and the masks                 of the male characters.                 
Since                 many roles of the khon demand extremely boisterous performances,                 the costumes are often fitted and sewn on the dancer prior to                 the performance. The different positions demanded of each                 character must be posed while the fitting and sewing are bein g                 done. This not only assures the proper drapes and folds, but                 helps to avoid an embarrassing rip of a seam during the action.                 
                 The most popular characters of males are Totsakan (the Demon                 King), Rama (the Righteous King), the Hanuman (the Monkey                 Warrior). Students are often selected to train for specific                 roles because of their size or build. The formalized movements                 of khon perfo rmances make the acting and dancing inseparable.                 Each step has a meaning, emphasized by the appropriate music,                 narration and song. Each is practised over and over again until                 it is mastered. Mom Rajawongse Kukrit Pramoj once called the                 khon training "inhu man". In many of the dances, the                 head cover identifies the character being performed. The                 jewelled crown headdresses (chada) that are worn are all much                 the same, but for the khon, the mask                 is the character.                 
Masks                 were not worn by khon performers before the Ayutthaya                 period (1350-1767). Instead the faces of the characters were                 painted on the dancers. Mask making evolved from the wish to                 have a more permanent means of identifying the characters; one                 which would retain the basic characteristics and features, and                 be easily recognized.                 
During                 the Ayutthaya period, khon performances were held in palace                 halls or courtyards lighted by torches. Complete performances of                 the Ramakian could continue for days. Often those who watched                 would leave for a while and then return to pick up the sto ry,                 since it was already familiar to them.                 
While                 each part of a khon costume has its own significance, the mask                 is the single most important piece. Contrary to popular belief,                 masks for each character can vary from troupe to troupe yet all                 maintain the necessary identifying characteristics. Eac h mask                 maker has a certain artistic leeway in his interpretation,                 however there are certain fundamentals of the character masks                 which remain constant. Blunt, curved tusks on a demon mask                 signify old age; straight, blunt tusks that point upward                 indicate th at even though he is a demon, he has mellowed and                 become kind-hearted in old age; curved, sharp tusks are those of                 a middle-aged demon and sharp pointed tusks which point downward                 are those of a youthful demon.                 
There                 are other decorative details which are used in differentiating                 between the masks. Eyes of the demons are not the same as the                 eyes of other characters. Demon eyes are of two type--"crocodile                 eyes" with half eyelids, and bulging "fish eyes".                 Tusks were formerly made of ivory, but today it's both scarce                 and expensive so other materials are used in most cases.
                 
The                 major distinguishing characteristics of khon masks are the bald                 head and the crowned head. Monkey characters and soldiers of the                 demon army belong to the "bald head group". Whatever                 other differences may appear however, Hanuman is always white.                 The characters of Rama, his brothers, gods, rishis (wise hermits),                 Totsakan, his relatives and allies, and some of the generals of                 the monkey army wear crowned masks. An obvious difference                 between the demon and monkey masks is the long tusks of the
 de                 mons and the canine teeth of the monkeys. Some khon mask                 artisans believe the demon masks must also have the three                 characteristics: round chin, a glaring expression and eyebrow                 and moustache tips "in harmony."                 
More                 than 10 styles of crowns are to be found on khon masks. Some                 characters, such as Rama and his brother Lakshman use more than                 one type for their roles as the scenes change. (In modern                 versions of the khon, Rama and Lakshman may be without masks, we                 aring chadas instead.) As the mask of Hanuman is always white,                 the crown of Totsakan always has three tiers.                 
There                 are altogether more than 100 different demon masks used in the                 khon--these are divided into 14 groups to avoid confusion. To                 avoid further confusion, eyes and mouths are different for each                 character and facial colouring is also different. If the colours                 are too similar, other means of identification are used; for                 instance, masks with purple faces are worn by both Phya Thut and                 Khun Prachat, so to help in identifying them properly, Phya Thut                 carries a lance and Khun Prahat, a club.                 
Those                 who watch khon performances often wonder how those wearing the                 masks can breathe. Admittedly, it isn't easy. The masks have                 little ventilation and they're hot. Some of the actors--particularly                 those in the monkey roles--must perform acrobatics an d                 somersaults and to prevent their masks from falling off, cords                 are sewn inside the masks at the mouth. These cords are then                 held in the teeth of the performers to keep the mask firmly in                 place.                 
Since                 the people wearing the masks cannot speak, there is a narrator                 or khon phak who has not only to know his subject, but also the                 rhythm of the dancers' movements. A khon performance has to rely                 on the proper coordination of dancers, narrator and orchestra. (The                 clowns are the only characters who speak for themselves; even                 those who wear chadas do not speak.)                 
An                 artisan who makes the khon masks must fully understand the                 character and personality of the mythological being the mask                 will portray. It is said that a good mask maker requires three                 basic qualifications--he must be able to draw, to sculpture or                 mou ld well enough to prepare a model of the character, and to                 be able to engrave the delicate ornamentations. A sure and                 steady hand is a decided asset.                 
Originally                 models were made of wood or clay, but some mask makers today use                 more modern materials for making their models.                 
Before                 an artisan begins working on a new mask, he performs a ritual                 ceremony to invite the spirits of his old teachers, the gods,                 and the angels, to help him succeed at his work. The model is                 then covered with several layers of sa paper or papi er mache.                 Then it is thoroughly dried. Depending on their personal                 preference or method, mask makers do only a couple of layers                 before drying, and then add more material to the mould. Other                 prefer to do several layers at one time, and then add more mater                 ial to the mould. Others prefer to do several layers at one time,                 and then allow them to dry. Some of the artists also advise                 sticking the last couple of layers with a glue made of flour, to                 which they add a locally made insecticide. This helps to preven                 t the finished masks being damaged by insects and weevils.                 
Quite                 a large number and assortment of models are necessary--not only                 for the different facial expressions added, but in addition to                 humans, demons, and hermits, there is also a need sometimes for                 masks of elephants, horses, and mythological animals.                 
After                 being completely dried, the mask is cut from the mould and                 stitched together. The "scar" is covered with thin                 paper. The mask next receives a coating of rak samuk--a semi-hard                 lacquer, to sharpen and bring out the facial lines. Making a ma                 sk takes about seven days with most of the time taken up by the                 drying stages. Most mask makers work on more than one mask at a                 time, each one in a different stage of completion.                 
The                 art of mask making--and it is an art--is usually passed down                 from one generation to another; or a respected craftsman (chang                 sip mu) may accept apprentices who come to study and learn from                 a master and who show artistic talent. Today the num ber of old                 masters has dwindled and relatively few young artists aspire to                 the craft, for the financial reward is small compared to the                 time and experience necessary. The old-fashioned way of making                 khon masks has joined the growing list of endangered cra fts.                 
After                 a khon mask has been completed it must be initiated in the time-tested                 rites before it can be worn by a performer or a dancer. Gods are                 believed to give their protection to each mask and, without the                 propitiative ceremonies, all sorts of disastro us catastrophies                 may assail the one who dares to wear the mask.                 
The                 completed masks must also undergo a rite to "open their                 eyes"--the "Beuk Phra Netra" ceremony. Following                 this ritual, the masks are always kept in a high place as is                 proper for any object of reverence.                 
Before                 the first performance of a mask it is customary for the master,                 or head teacher, to personally place the new mask over the head                 of the performer. It is also customary before the debut                 performance of a khon dancer for an elder or respected teache r                 to place his mask on the dancer for a moment. The senior,                 standing before the novice, repeats sacred words and presses                 gold leaf onto the centre of the mask's forehead.                 
Since                 performers treat their masks with such reverence, periodic rites                 are held to pay homage to the spirits of the masks. Both                 craftsmen and performers look on the masks as "teachers",                 and therefore worthy of respect. Khon masks are always preserved                 a nd some that still exist are well over 100 years old. There                 are in fact, masks made by King                 Rama II which can be seen in the National Museum in Bangkok.                 
All                 teachers in Thailand are highly respected persons; and teachers                 of the classical drama and                 arts enjoy a special status--not only during their period of                 teaching, but for their entire lifetime. Khon performers show                 their est eem not only to their own teachers but to all the                 elderly masters as well. Thai arts and craftsmanship have a long                 and traditional history, and while all teachers in Thailand are                 honoured each year by a Wai Kru ceremony, the rites of honour                 for tea chers of the classical drama, music and arts are very                 elaborate.                 
The                 annual Rite of Homage (Wai Kru) for teachers of the arts                 includes a religious ceremony which is followed by an invocation                 inviting the divinities (Thevadas) to partake of the feast which                 gas been provided for then. An elder, usually the senior teac                 her or principal of the school, presides over the ceremony. On                 the auspicious day the elder is dressed entirely in white (or at                 least, wears a white coat).                 
A                 Buddha image is placed on the altar tables along with the                 traditional flowers, candles and incense sticks. Another table                 holds the food offerings which include a pig's head, duck and                 other fowl, both cooked and popped rice, beverages, folded leaf                 arr angements and flowers.                 
A                 Piphat orchestra plays specific musical scores as each divinity                 is invited to attend the ceremony. Following the departure of                 the divine spirits, another ceremony is held to include all                 those who are in attendance. All come together to form a cir cle                 and a lighted taper is passed form person to person. From the                 president, who begins the ritual, the candle is passed from one                 to another until it has completed three circuits. The rites are                 concluded by the president marking the forehead of each stude nt                 with a specially prepared white paste and sprinkling each one                 with lustral (holy) water.                 
Novice                 students are not accepted for initiation until after they have                 mastered both the fast and slow tempos of the dance well enough                 to appear on stage in minor roles. Some steps and postures are                 not taught until after the student has been formally i nitiated.                 
Another                 important rite for students comes after they are well advanced                 in their training, when they are elevated to the status of                 teacher. From that time, a student who continues to study and                 acquires greater expertise and ability, becomes eligible for                 higher rank, respect and honour.                 
It's                 not too surprising to learn that the presiding teacher or                 president of the Wai Kru and initiation rites must be a man; a                 female in this position is believed to bring about grave                 misfortune. All male teachers, however, are not eligible to                 perform i nitiation rites--only those who have been appointed by                 former senior teachers are allowed this honour.                 
Most                 old masters were always very careful in choosing 'worthy' pupils,                 and they jealously guarded their manuscripts of the rituals. The                 homage and initiation rites are always performed on a Thursday,                 for in Thailand Thursday is accepted as " Teachers D ay."                 
The                 performing artists and teachers believe that the Wai Kru Day is                 their special day and its observance is ethically and                 disciplinarily binding. Those who consciously stay away from                 this rite are sinning and drawing upon their heads the curses of                 thei r teachers. They also go to hell after death.                 
The                 great importance of the ritual and rites which are a part of the                 classical theatre in Thailand was given added significance in                 October 1984, when King                 Bhumibol Adulyadej presided over the presentation of khon                 masks and head gear to five newly appointed presidents of the                 "Traditional Paying Homage Ceremony" for khon and                 dance drama.                 
The                 five senior artists ranged from 37 to 50 years of age. They were                 appointed by His Majesty following the unexpected death of Kru (teacher)                 Arkom Sayakom who had died without preparing anyone for his                 position. Anyone who achieves this prestigious p osition must                 not only have great expertise in his field, but must also be of                 the highest moral character, merit the respect of society and                 have been ordained as a Buddhist                 monk. (Ordinarily he should also be selected by the pa st                 president and presented with the Prayer Book.)                 
As                 already mentioned, all khon masks are revered and considered                 sacred. This is even more stringent for the khon masks made                 especially for the Wai Kru ceremony. Their facial expressions                 are different from others, and some of these masks are entirely                 gilded.                 
Many                 years ago, an artisan who was commissioned to make a Master mask                 was required to be dressed all in white on the day he began work,                 and the work was usually begun on a Thursday. When a Master mask                 was completed the mask maker prayed to the sacred spirits to                 enter the mask.                 
As                 one can easily see, there is a lot more to the Thai                 Classical Dance than meets the eye of a casual viewer. And                 however an 'outsider' might view all the rituals and regulations,                 they do have significance to the teachers and performers. The                 traditions have evolved over many decades and while some may                 have been altered in some of their small details, they have                 certainly helped in the preservation of the classical theatre in                 this country.