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Thailand information,Thing in Thailand,Where To Go Thailand frequently asked questions
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Thailand's shimmering hand - woven silk is among its most famous products.
Silk manufacture is an ancient craft but until recently it was never a major item of trade for production was too limited in older times. This was always the labour of village women who spun, dyed and wove the fabrics only when their work in field and home allowed time. Nor was silk for everyday wear being reserved for such festive occasions as marriages and other important ceremonies.
Nowadays there are factories making Thai silk on a larger scale, but the finest qualities are still produced on hand looms in villages where old skill are lovingly passed from one generation to the next. Most regions of Thailand have their own typical silks which are especially prized. Of all these the "Mud - Mee" tie - dyed design and "Phumriang" brocades are considered outstanding.
Phumriang is a village in Surat Thani province where an old lady named Mrs. Riam Wanmukda was renowned for exquisite weaving. Originally only plant dyes were used, distilled from roots, bark and leaves, but today chemical dyes are preferred for their brighter colours. Modern designs have also joined the traditional pattern. Particular to Phumriang is the use of gold threads in the complex designs. The result is a rich brocade that is more than a handicraft, it is truly a treasure.
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Besides plain and printed silks, a number of special weaves have become celebrated. One of these is called "mudmee", a specialty of the northeast. Mudmee is produced by a tie - dye process: the silk thread is wound around two poles whose length equals the width of the cloth, after which it is tied (mud) at various places according to the design. The thread is then dyed and spun on a shuttle. Other kind of Northeastern textiles include tin chok and Phrae Wa cloth.
The official name of Bangkok in Thai is Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Yuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit.
This ceremonial name is composed in combination of two ancient Indian languages, Pāli and Sanskrit. Translated it means "The city of angels, the great city, the eternal jewel city, the impregnable city of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukam". The full name of the city is listed by Guinness Book of Records as the world's longest place name.
AREA
513,115 sq. km.
Neighbours
CLIMATE
Thailand enjoys a tropical climate with three distinct seasons:
The average annual temperature is about 28° C. The northern region can be a bit cold during the cool season. Be sure to bring along a sweater or a light jacket if you intend to visit this region around that time of the year. During the rainy season, downpours hardly last more than a couple of hours.
Gemstones are Thailand’s second biggest export line, after garments and before rice. In 1990, the country exported gemstones for approximately 1.5 billion US Dollars. More than half of the worlds quality rubies come from Thailand, mainly from the region bordering Cambodia (rubies from Cambodia also find in substantial numbers their way to Thailand). In the Thai provinces of Chanthaburi, Kanchanaburi and Phrae, blue sapphires are mined. Zircon and garnet are other gemstones found in Thailand.
Thailand is a good place to buy gemstones - principally for those who are big timers in the gemstone trade. Whether it’s a good place to buy gemstones retail is debatable. As a matter of fact, a large number of unsuspecting tourists get burned when buying gemstones in Thailand.
First, there are the clear frauds in which the 'stupid' tourist is just sold some glass beads.
Second, there are the incidents when the tourist just gets low quality stones while having paid for top quality stones.
Third, when tourists actually get good quality stones, they often do so at best for prices which are not lower than those paid anywhere else in the world, or worse, for prices considerably higher.
Gemstone sales of the first and second case are usually conducted by con artists. They make friends with foreign visitors and after a while come up with a story that they have some relative in the gems trade, and accidentally, an "extremely good chance" is just existing to make a small fortune. As the con artists word it, it always seems to be a chance tailored for foreign visitors - but of course the only one who will finally make a small fortune is the con artist and his cohorts.
A story presented by a con artist could sound like this: "Because the Thai government has put under state control the export of gems, ordinary Thais cannot export stones by themselves. However, foreign visitors can buy gems and take them home. Because the gem trade is under state control and the government fixes the price for exports through the normal commercial channels, prices for gemstones are much higher abroad than in Thailand. A tourist who buys a few gemstones directly from a good source (the con artist may even indicate that his relative’s gems are black market stones) can easily finance his Thailand trip just by taking a few stones out of the country, walking into any jewelry store back at home and sell the stones for triple the price." There are endless varieties of con artists’ stories. For example, a con artist may claim that his brother has to sell some stones which are old family inheritance because his baby will need a heart operation, and the brother therefore is allegedly willing to sell the stones for far beneath their value. It is reported that some extra stupid tourists have then offered to pay the "real", of course higher price for the stones - and others have, because of the alleged serenity of the circumstances, at least refrained from haggling over the price.
One just has to read the letters to the editors of the English newspapers in Bangkok to find regularly some more varieties of the same old theme.
Of course, all curious claims of con artists are just nonsense. The Thai government doesn’t control the gems trade and imposes inflated prices for stones to be exported. And gemstones are not some exotic novelty or fashion item for which a price is set quite arbitrarily but rather an international commodity for which prices at any time do not differ much from one country to another (though retail shoppers probably pay at home a few percent duty and most probably the full Value Added Tax of maybe 10 to 20 percent - plus the mark up of the retailer).
This is no longer the age of spice traders who made a few thousand percent profit on a sack of pepper brought from the Far East to Europe. Price fluctuations of just some 10 percent between Asia and Europe are a difference on which commodity traders can easily live - in the case of rubbers just as in the case of rubies.
Therefore, all talk of Thailand in general or Bangkok in particular being a great place to shop for gemstones is a myth as far as the ordinary visitor or tourist is concerned. Gemstones are not a bargain here - not for those who buy them retail. Gemstone retailers in Bangkok often operate on mark-ups which are not necessarily smaller than the mark-ups of jewelers in the West.
In contrary, even basically honest gemstone retailers may be tempted to make an unethical profit by setting a mark-up even beyond what the mark-up would be at a tourist’s home country. Definitely the foreign visitor who is on an unknown turf in Bangkok is at a considerable disadvantage when buying in Thailand compared to buying at home. In Thailand, he doesn’t have much time to shop around. He has communication problems. And because of too many new impressions taking his attention he is probably not as alert as he would be in comparative situations at home. This is known also among the jewelry and gemstone retailers in Bangkok, and accordingly when confronted with foreigners who have obviously decided already to buy gemstones in Thailand because they believe that they must be cheaper than at home, they might feel tempted to go for the quick kill, taking the chance to request inflated prices even at the risk that a potential client might not buy from them because there is still another trader who offered a better deal (maybe it may just be a lower quality of stones.)
Foreign retail buyers often don’t fare well when purchasing gemstones in Thailand - not only in cases where they are outright cheated but even when indeed getting what they paid for, though far too much.
Additional reasons contributing to this situation is the wide employment of a commission system. Any foreign visitor who enters any jewelry selling establishment accompanied by a local acquaintance, or who enters a jewelry selling establishment during on a organized tour must be prepared to pay substantial hidden commissions.
Nevertheless, there may be occasional cases when a foreigner buys gemstones at a retail outlet in Bangkok at lower prices than he would at a jewelry shop back home. But even then, the price difference will certainly not make it worthwhile to buy a few gems in Bangkok and to try to sell them back home. The price difference, if any, certainly is not due to a very substantial difference in wholesale prices but to different retailer mark-ups. In the case of a knowledgeable retail shopper, a gems retailer in Bangkok may actually settle for a mark-up smaller than his counterpart in a Western country. But bluffs will not work. The retail shopper has indeed to be knowledgeable.
The Asian Institute of Gemological Science (Tel 513-2112, 513-7044 to 5) offers a one week course on gemstone identification at a price of 4,850 Baht (no gems included, but a text book). The course does not turn a amateur into a specialist and gems trader.
Those contemplating converting money into gemstones should be aware that gemstones are particularly unsuited as commodity investment. Unlike in the case of gold and silver, the value of a gemstone cannot simply be determined by weighting it. To many other factors play a role, size, shape and even how healthy Western economies are at a given time. For gemstones except diamonds are marketed almost exclusively as jewelry.
Even the Asian Institute for Gemological Science from which certificates attesting to the genuineness and quality of any particular gemstone are available at 599 Baht if one can wait a week for the report or at 999 Baht if one wants it faster, refrains from putting a value tag on stones. They are worth just the amount one gets for them when reselling - making the sales skill of the vendor an intricate part of the value of any gemstone.
The ordinary visitor should buy gemstones only if he or she fancies them for his or her own adornment or as a gift. He or she should certainly not buy them with the intention to resell them at a profit because that profit will not materialize. And he or she shouldn’t even buy them as an investment.
Shopping Tips
Fixed prices are the norm in department stores and a number of shops in Bangkok, but at most other places bargaining is acceptable and expected. Generally, shopping in Thailand is easy, fun and very rewarding, but the following advice is useful especially when making gem and jewellery purchases :
- Shop around to compare prices - this is especially important with gems and jewellery.
- Obtain a receipt for goods bought and check if is correct before leaving the shop
- Never let a tout or new found friend take you shopping. Stores give commission to these people, and the cost is reflected in the price you pay.
- In general, jewellery items cannot be returned. If refunds are allowed, then often 25-30% of the selling price will be deducted as “costs of damages”. More reputable companies may offer a full refund although usually only within a certain time limit, such as 30 days. Do not believe any claims by shop owners that purchases can be refunded at Thai embassies, consulates or other government offices overseas.
- Reputable shops will give a written agreement to a full refund on any goods returned within 90 days. If a shop refuses to do this, go eslewhere.
- Shops in hotel arcades pay high rents and accordingly prices tend to be higher than at street shops. On the other hand, hotel arcades are very convenient if you have little time for shopping.
Packing and Shipping Services
Thanks to the ever-increasing number of tourists coming to Thailand, most shops are experienced at shipping abroad and will attend to all the documents such as insurance, customs and necessary permits. The Central Post Office also offers a parcel-wrapping service for those who want to make small shipments themselves. For larger items or bulk shipments, there are several Bangkok companies who specialise in such matters.
VAT Refund
Visitors entering the Kingdom on tourist visas are entitled to refunds of the 7% value added tax (VAT) paid on goods purchased at shops, department stores and other retail outlets displaying " VAT Refund for Tourists " signs, where tax refund application forms are available. Prior to airport departure, visitors must present a completed VAT refund form, plus passport information and purchase receipts, to a customs officer. Certain luxury goods must be shown to an excise official. Refunds may be in bank draft form or credited to a credit card. For more information, please contact the VAT Refunds for Tourists Office, Tel: 0 2272 9388 or VAT Refund Office at Bangkok International Airport Tel : 02535 6577-8
SUKHUMVIT:Silom leads into New Road which parallels the Chao Phraya River, and notable shopping opportunities include gems and jewellery stores (Mahesak Road is a gem trading centre), Oriental Plaza and River City shopping complex.
PRATUNAM-PHETCHABURI:Like Silom, Sukhumvit is one of Bangkok's main thoroughfares, and the long road is lined with shops, boutiques and modern shopping plazas ranging from Soi 3 (Nana Nua) up to Soi 63 (Ekamai). Most shops and restaurants are concentrated between Soi 3 and Soi 21 (Asoke) and along shortcuts between Asoke and Ekamai.
BANG LAMPHU:A highlight in the district is Pratunam market, one of Bangkok's biggest centres for ready-to-wear clothing.
T-ra Design T-ra Design has fashion outlets at Zen CentralWorld, All Seasons Place and Central Chitlom. T-ra represents one of the most promising talents of the young generation of Thai fashion designers, who will shape tomorrow’s fashion scene. |
Boudoir by Disaya Boudoir by Disaya conveys an attitude of being playful yet sophisticated. Boudoir's womenswear range is subtly luxurious with hints of boldness and buoyancy. The wide range of products offered by Boudoir will suit many women, from young teens to professional and mature ladies. Boudoir by Disaya is available in U.S.A., Australia, Spain, U.K., department stores in Bangkok. Lingerie, ready to wear and fashion jewelry. |
Gulatino, Exclusive Custom Tailor, Phuket Welcome to Gulatino Exclusive Custom Tailor individual bespoke tailoring in Phuket.We offer an excellent range of superior quality made to measure ladies and gentlemen's suits using fine fabrics at competitive prices. |
The Truth about Tailors, Pattaya Tailoring business in Pattaya - Guaranteed best tailoring both in terms of quality and prices (or your money back). You can be my next customer. |
Senada Theory Senada incorporates a range of ethnic influences in its designs. Indian embroidery, Chinese silks, and Thai patterns transform into contemporary urban looks. Located at Gaysorn Plaza. Senada is available in the United States and around Europe. |
Tube Gallery Tube Gallery offers fashion collections for men and women. Outlets at Siam Centre, Zen CentralWorld, Siam Paragon and Playground, Bangkok. |
ExecShirts.com Custom quality dress shirts for men, shipped free within one week, for only $59 |
New Bangkok International Tailor Bangkok tailor, located Sukhumvit Soi 7. |
Narry Co. Ltd. Narry’s Boutique and Inn, Patong, Phuket : suits, dresses, trousers, shirts etc. |
Lords Tailor, Pattaya Lords Tailor has a long experience in the tailor business and it shows in the clothes we make. The quality and value we give tourists and locals are such that our repeat customers continue to rise. |
Dapper General Apparel Co. Ltd. Men’s apparel : shirts, trousers and suits, casual and fashion wear. Footwear for men and women. |
Body Glove Thailand Co. Ltd. Manufacturer of trendy fashion : Body Glove Thailand. |
Top High Class Fashion Based in Thailand, we specialize in making high quality women's dresses. Our products : party dresses, evening dresses, prom dresses, cocktail dresses, summer dresses, short dresses, long dresses, skirt set, pant set, cat suits. All made with the best fabrics. |
Crown Tailor, Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok Established in the late eighties, Crown Tailor has over 15 years of professional tailoring experience. All our suits are exclusively handmade with meticulous attention to detail, quality craftsmanship and with only the finest materials and threads. Our website gives the low down on how you can order a suit right from where you are. Located Sukhumvit road. |
Accadamia Italiana Thailand If you are looking for a fashion and design institute in Thailand now in Bangkok , you can attend courses at one of the best among Fashion design schools, Design Schools and Art Schools in the world. You can specialize in fashion design , interior and product design , graphic design and visual communications, costume design (for cinema, theater and televistion). |
Top High Class Fashion Based in Thailand, we specialize in making high quality women’s dresses. Our products : party dresses, evening dresses, prom dresses, cocktail dresses, summer dresses, short dresses, long dresses, skirt set, pant set, cat suits. All made with the best fabrics. |
Thailand411 Wholesale fashion handbags, fashion shoes company based in Pratunam, Thailand, providing good quality wholesale handbags, shoes at very attractive prices. |
Crown Tailor, Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok Established in the late eighties, Crown Tailor has over 15 years of professional tailoring experience. All our suits are exclusively handmade with meticulous attention to detail, quality craftsmanship and with only the finest materials and threads. Our website gives the low down on how you can order a suit right from where you are. Located Sukhumvit road. |
Come Prima Fashion Garments Come Prima Fashion Garments is one of Thailand’s longest established garment producers with a wide range of ladies, men’s, children’s and sports fashion wear and jeans. |
Niche Nation Eyewear (Thonglor) Niche Nation is the boutique in Bangkok for designer eyewear, stylish optical eye glasses and unique sunglasses. The shop stocks the worlds most rewarded brands of the industry including those from Alain Mikli, Theo, Lindberg, Freudenhaus, Funk, Vinylize, Spec Espace, H Fusion, Ic Berlin, Mykita, Sfm Dream, Oliver Peoples and Paul Smith. |
Thai J. Press Co. Ltd. Thai J. Press specializes in all kinds of men’s and boys’ underwear from briefs and boxers to various kinds of undershirts such as tanktops, sleeveless t–shirts, t–shirts, etc. |
King's Fashion Phuket Fine Ladies and Gents fashion in modern and classic designs. Our 22 years of experience and expertise make King’s Fashion one of, if not, the premier Custom Tailor in Phuket. |
Jack's International, Pattaya Jack’s International, bespoke tailor in Pattaya, in business since about 30 years. |
Royal Scandic Collection, Phuket Royal Scandic welcomes you to Kata Beach, Phuket, Thailand. We have the finest tailors and have customers around the world. We give you the best quality and prices and perform excellent customer service. |
RamThai.com Ram Thai offers you a big variety of exquisitely tailored Thai–style dresses, suits and Thai silk shirts as well as traditional dancing costumes and accessories, all reflecting the splendour and spirit of our fascinating country. |
R & D Shop - TooTone Shop www.RDfashion.com: We invite you to shop our world–famous collection online. R&D Fashion and Tootone are wholesalers and retailers of sexy, sophisticated, fashionable evening dresses, women’s clothing in City Complex, Pratunam, Bangkok. |
Embassy Fashion House Welcome to Embassy Fashion House, Bangkok’s Only British Tailor. We Custom Tailor Clothes For Both Men And Women. Your Satisfaction Is Guaranteed |
Vision Manufacturing Co.Ltd. Vision Manufacturing Company Limited is one of the most productive garment factories in Laos. |
Fashion portal & directory of Thai fashion pro's Fashion website, online showroom of Thai designers and their latest designs, complete site with all organizations and professionals in Thailand included. B2B, OEM, Sourcing, foreign brand name shops |
Picaso Fashions At Picaso Fashions, you will find a range of literally hundreds of the finest materials to choose from. Imported wools, cashmere, silks and polyesters. Beautiful hand made Thai silks. |
Inders Fashion - House of Style World Class Custom Tailors. Located conveniently in the heart of Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s busiest street. |
MyCustomTailor.com custom tailors for mens and women with a wide range of fabrics and the latest designer styles, world wide delivery, no extra charge for big and tall |
New International Boutique House We have been in this custom tailoring business for 3 generations servicing clients from around the world. We strive to provide clothing of top notch quality at very reasonable prices. |
Julie Thai Cotton & Silk Dress maker in Bangkok provides dress making service(made to order and ready made) for lady clothes such as wedding dress, Chinese dress, jacket, blouse, skirt, pants, evening dress, coat, scarfs. |
A. Prime, Custom Tailor Our clients are those who want world class quality for their clothing with superior fabrics, cutting, sewing, tailoring, and services at attractive rates. (Shangri–La Hotel & Oriental Place) |
Dave's Collection, Four Wings Hotel, Bangkok Tailoring is on top of recommendations for visitors to Bangkok. At Dave’s Collection we keep a complete stock of the finest fabrics available ranging from English Wool, Italian Wool, Australian Wool, Egyptian Cotton, Oxford Pinpoint, Poly/Cotton and 100% Thai Silk. We also stock a very wide variety of Wool Blend fabric at resonable price. |
FUNK sunglasses Thailand FUNK sunglasses from Germany are made for funky, trendy party people and music freaks. |
Thailand online fashion handbags wholesaler Save up to 50% on wholesale fashion handbags. Thailand wholesale fashion handbags manufacturer/purses wholesaler offers high quality wholesale fashion handbags, wholesale purses at attractive prices |
Monet il Sarto (House of Fashion) Finest ladies and gents custom tailors located near Marriott Resort and Spa.(Bangkok) |
A. M. Production Co. Ltd., Phuket Inexpensive T–Shirts, Polo Shirts. Looking for a fast and dependable supplier of custom–made silk screened promotional T–shirts and Polo Shirts? |
De Moda Bangkok De Moda Bangkok is a custom apparel and tailor shop with an emphasis on hand beading and embroidery. We create unique beaded purses, Thai silk scarves and silk flowers for wholesale or retail sale. |
Boutique Newcity Public Co. Ltd. Summary information about Boutique Newcity Public Co. Ltd. |
Der Herr Our concern for customers satisfaction, attention to detail, quality control and most importantly, quality apparel, has ensured that our clients have returned to us years after years. |
Siam-Fashion.com We are a group of manufacturers and suppliers of Thai original apparel products. Our products are Thai silk gown and wedding dresses, Thai silk traditional costumes, jewelry and ladies shoes. |
Ravi Seghal Custom Tailors, Sukhumvit Road Ravi Seghal offers a collection of exclusive fabrics from the world’s best fabric houses including Vitale Barberis, Loro Piana, Holland and Sherry. Choose from the finest Super 100's, Merino wools, silks, cashmeres, English and Italian fabrics, superfine wool worsteds, flannels, Scottish tweeds and cashmere, French Gabardines, Italian pure silk and silk Mohair's. Fine custom tailoring for men and women. Located Sukhumvit Road. |
Raffles LaSalle International Design School Raffles LaSalle International Design School is the first international design school in Bangkok, that covers all the major aspects of design. The school is located at Silom Center, Silom Road. |
Piklik - Cotton Nightwear Specialists Piklik’s ladies’ nightwear, pyjamas, women’s blouses, men’s shirts, children’s clothing, bed curtains and bedroom accessories. Found at European department stores, retail in Bangkok and Chiangmai. |
It started years ago on the sultry Indonesian island of Java when I arrived without enough cool clothing. Out of desperation, I approached street-side mom-and-pop tailors in the city of Yogyakarta. They spoke no English, so I relied on rough sketches and pantomime to communicate that I wanted to turn a $2 batik sarong into a pair of loose-fitting trousers. They could copy the waistband from my Banana Republic shorts.
My goal was to get through the rest of my trip without sweltering, although at the time I felt a little like Scarlett O’Hara in “Gone With the Wind,” designing an outfit from the green velvet parlor drapes that once hung at Tara. But I was so pleased with the results that I had those $10 pants copied five more times on subsequent trips to the region.
That experience, born of necessity, was my introduction to the affordable luxury of custom-made clothing from Southeast Asia, an interest I have pursued with a passion on seven trips to that part of the world during the last 14 years. Each time, I have looked forward to visiting tailors who seem to magically stitch beautiful garments in a matter of days or even hours – often for less than it would cost to buy the same things off the rack back home.
In the process, I have built a wardrobe sewn for me in Thailand, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam and Laos. Some pieces, such as my Javanese trousers, have been Western designs cut from traditional local fabrics such as silk or batik. Many more have been made of wool, cotton or linen that was available there or that I brought with me from the United States.
Cost saving is one attraction of buying clothes this way, but an even stronger motivation is being able to get exactly what I want. Because Southeast Asian tailors tend to be skilled at copying, I have learned to take prototypes from my own closet that I want replicated or updated, although it’s also possible to have things made based on a photograph or on samples displayed in the store.
Two of the places I visited on a December trip to the area are known for their tailors: Bangkok, Thailand, has had a busy garment trade for years; Hoi An, Vietnam, is developing one. Intending to have clothes made in both places, I left home with half a duffel bag of prototypes, fabrics and even buttons. I returned with six linen blouses – four of them copied from a Perry Ellis original, a three-piece (skirt, pants, jacket) wool crepe suit, cashmere hip-hugger dress pants, two pairs of silk pajamas and corduroy jeans. The tab was $402, not counting the fabric I took with me, but including some that the tailors supplied. That’s less than it would have cost to buy just one designer blazer in the United States.
Not surprisingly, the success of such endeavors depends on the quality of the tailor, and choosing one can be a bit tricky. Many of the shops in Bangkok, for example, look indistinguishable – cramped, unassuming places that are either clustered together or sandwiched between other stores.
One possibility is to rely on leads from locals. Although hotel concierges can also make suggestions (they got me to the mom-and-pop operation in Yogyakarta), I take them with a grain of salt. Sometimes their rave reviews are inspired by what the locals call “tea money” that has passed under the table.
I’ve had the best luck with recommendations from ex-pats, who tend to appreciate the tailoring more than label-conscious residents who generally prefer ready-made Western designs. In Singapore I have been a repeat customer for more than 10 years at Carvette Fashion, the shop of Alice Pwa Ah Lan. Carvette was a favorite of an American friend who once lived in Singapore.
Anticipating my visit to Bangkok and not fully trusting what I read on various travelers’ websites, I contacted Julie Dolan, whose commentary on her travels in Bangkok I had heard many times on the National Public Radio show “Satellite Sisters.” Dolan, who has since moved to Moscow, recommended a dressmaker for me and a shirt maker for my husband, Ken Stern.
My husband and I contacted the shops by e-mail before we left home, because we wanted to be sure they would be open around New Year’s weekend, when we planned to conclude our vacation with a stop in Bangkok. Lucky we did; they replied that they would be closed for all or part of the time. With that in mind, we scheduled a five-hour layover in Bangkok earlier in our trip, on the way from southern Thailand to Laos, and hopped a taxi to both stores.
Bangkok
Our first stop was Cotton House – actually a thumbnail-sized room – in the mini-shopping plaza called Oriental Place opposite the Oriental Hotel. (If I hadn’t been looking for it, I might have walked right by.) There, precisely 65 minutes after our flight landed, Khun Reed greeted us with her measuring tape around her neck. She was expecting us. The walls of her tiny shop were lined with colored silks and cottons, and bolts of wool and linen. All the women who worked there wore intricately detailed white cotton blouses that I later learned were the store’s hallmark. Because I had brought most of the fabric I wanted with me, along with samples to be copied, it took Reed just 30 minutes to take my measurements and write the order. When we returned one week later, she had eight “pieces,” as they are called, ready for fitting.
Getting things just right required two more days and two more fittings; fortunately we were staying at the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel, which was just a 10-minute walk away.
But I had ordered difficult items, including a wool suit that needed several adjustments because the fabric stretches as you work with it. Reed kept the shop open the afternoon of New Year’s Eve to complete the order before the holiday. And the final products were exquisite. Because these were business clothes, I had requested finishing details that are rare, or at least extremely expensive, on off-the-rack clothing back home, such as bound buttonholes on the suit jacket and French seams on the linen blouses. If your taste runs to self-covered buttons – made out of the same fabric as the garment – these are readily available in Asia. Had I had not brought my own buttons, I would have asked to see the ones the shop planned to use. We had an equally positive experience with the shirt shop, Rajawongse, run by an Indian father and son, Jesse and Victor Gulatis, in the heart of Bangkok’s garment district near the Landmark Hotel on Sukhumvit Road. “Chalk the cloth you want,” said Victor, handing us a piece of yellow tailor’s chalk and motioning to the nearly 100 bolts of cotton that lined one wall, arranged first by pattern, stripes, solids and tattersalls, and then by color.
Victor, who is nearly 6 feet tall and a man of some heft, looked dashing in his blue and white striped dress shirt with gold cufflinks, silk tie and black turban. My husband, whose own taste runs to Indian-style banded-collar shirts, produced a sample.
“We can improve upon that,” Victor said with an air of authority. And he did. By the time we returned to Bangkok a week later the store was closed for vacation. But there was a shopping bag from Rajawongse waiting for us at our hotel. It contained seven perfectly tailored shirts in fine Egyptian cotton. They cost us $25 apiece.
Hoi An, Vietnam
In contrast with the impeccable quality and service we got in Bangkok, having clothes made in Hoi An was more a chore than a pleasure. We had been to Hoi An briefly nine years earlier and remembered it as a tranquil little town where we wanted to come back and linger.
A 16th century Japanese covered bridge and historic Chinese shop houses, with stores in the front and merchants’ living quarters in the back or upstairs, have since earned Hoi An designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But the sleepy village we remembered had been taken over by the rag trade. Everywhere we turned there were tailor shops and touts beckoning.
Unlike Bangkok and Singapore, where tailors depend on repeat business from tourists using their city as a transportation hub, the tailors in Hoi An treat their customers like one-timers. We suspected as much after noticing many tourists walking about town with what looked like ill-fitting new clothes.
Prices for most things were nearly as high as in large cities, no matter how hard people bargained (customary in Southeast Asia). The going rate for a wool or silk suit was about $85 ($125 for cashmere), pants were $25, and a silk blouse cost $35. Unless you insisted on natural fibers and seemed to know the difference, much of the fabric offered was blended with rayon. And the quality of the workmanship was inconsistent.
This was painfully apparent at Yaly Couture, the most upscale of the handful of tailor shops we visited in Hoi An, which had an extensive selection of gorgeous fabrics. Customers can hear the din of sewing machines upstairs where 45 tailors labor. At another location nearby, our saleswoman told us, an additional 30 tailors just do jackets. Sample items on display in the store suggested that the owners pride themselves on meticulous workmanship. But our experience there indicates that the quality of the garment you get will be as good as the tailor assigned to your project.
Four sewers worked on our small order, which took just 12 hours from conception until the first fitting. The consequence was that each of the three cotton dress shirts Ken ordered ($11 each), all based on the same sample he supplied, looked different and one was significantly better than the others.
A single round of alterations corrected the problems – sleeves too wide, cuffs too tight and a missing button – but it took time out of our vacation, and the shirts don’t look good enough to wear for anything but travel or a beach cover-up. I’ve enjoyed two pairs of silk pajamas I had made there ($20 apiece), copied from a camisole top and drawstring pants I brought from home, but the workmanship was sloppy. Had it been better, I planned to order other items. Based on this dry run, I wasn’t even tempted.
A very hip looking mother and son from Los Angeles whom we met in Hoi An came away from Yaly much more satisfied. The son had ordered a silk suit copied from a picture in a magazine, which fit perfectly on the first try and, according to his mother, stopped traffic in the store when he tried it on. But a friend of theirs who placed an order at the same time was apparently so dissatisfied with the fit, even after alterations, she refused to take the outfit.
We were happier with the final product at Thu Thuy, another shop, where I had a favorite pair of jeans copied ($28). The pants, which I ordered in the morning, were ready seven hours later and fit without alteration. But I found the sales staff surly and the shopping experience unpleasant. Among other things, the saleswoman initially objected when I asked her to put a tiny snippet of the corduroy I chose from their stock on the receipt she gave me when she took my $10 deposit. This is standard practice in Asia to avoid mix-ups, and I wanted to be sure that the pants were made of the high-quality fabric I had selected, rather than from an inferior substitute.
Louangphrabang, Laos
I contrast our struggles in Hoi An with all the fun I’ve had ordering clothes elsewhere in Asia. For example, last year in Louangphrabang, a charming city in northern Laos, I had an outfit made of hand-woven Lao textiles from the OckPopTok textile shop. Joanna Smith, a former fashion photographer from London who is one of the owners, designed a tight sleeveless top made of a silk pa bieng, a long narrow piece of cloth that resembles a large scarf and is worn for Lao ceremonies. To go with it, Smith suggested hip-hugger silk pants trimmed in the black and white pattern from the pa bieng. The whole ensemble, expertly tailored off the premises in the space of 48 hours, cost $125.
For me, custom-made clothes are the ultimate Southeast Asian souvenirs. The experience and memories of acquiring them add to the enjoyment each time I put them on.
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Sampling of tailors
WHERE TO SHOP:
Carvette Fashion, 19 Tanglin Road, 03-49 Tanglin Shopping Centre, Singapore 247909; 011-65-673-46-229
Cotton House, Oriental Place Shopping Arcade, 30/1 Charoen Krung Road, 38 Bangkok, Thailand; 011-662-266-0186, Ext. 1021, e-mail: cottonhouse100 @hotmail.com.
Rajawongse, 130 Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok, Thailand; 011-662-255-3714,
Thu Thuy, 60 Le Loi St., Hoi An, Vietnam; 011-84-510-861-699
Yaly Couture, 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An, Vietnam; 011-84-510-910-474, e-mail: yalyshop@dng.vnn.vn.
OckPopTok, 73-5 Ban Vat Nong, Louangphrabang, Laos; 011-856-71-253-219